My Sri Lanka Route (watch my video itinerary here)

Negombo → Sigiriya → Ella → Udawalawe → Hiriketiya → Ahangama → Weligama → Mirissa → Negombo

I planned this route to move from adventure and culture → wildlife → beaches, wellness, and nightlife, without too much backtracking. I started inland with ancient temples and jungle adventures in Sigiriya and Ella, continued to a safari in Udawalawe, and then slowly made my way down the south coast through Hiriketiya, Ahangama, Weligama, Mirissa & more.

I’m sharing exactly where I stayed, the hotels and Airbnbs I’d recommend, my favorite restaurants and cafés, the tours and experiences that were actually worth it, and the things I would skip. Because not every “must-do” in a Sri Lanka travel guide is actually worth doing.Udawalawe National Park Safari - elephants

Sigiriya

I flew from India into Sri Lanka, landing in Negombo around 5:30 a.m., then hired a driver to take me straight to Sigiriya. It’s about a 3–4 hour drive, and I slept for most of it, but it was beautiful.

I checked into Hotel Sigiriya, which was a great base for exploring the area. After settling in and getting a massage, I took a tuk-tuk to Dambulla Cave Temple, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of Sri Lanka’s most important Buddhist pilgrimage sites. The 2000 year old temple is built into a massive granite rock and has five caves filled with ancient Buddhist murals and statues. This was such a cool first introduction to Sri Lanka.Sigiriya Hotel Lion Rock Sri Lanka

Lion Rock Sigiriya Sri Lanka Travel Guide AM   Lion Rock Sigiriya Sri Lanka Travel Guide AM Lion Rock Sigiriya Sri Lanka Travel Guide AM

SIGIRIYA ROCK

The next morning, I woke up at 4 a.m. and headed to Sigiriya Rock, also known as Lion Rock, for sunrise. This is one of the things I would 100% not skip on a Sri Lanka trip.

Sigiriya is a massive granite rock fortress rising out of the jungle that was once home to a royal palace. The climb is definitely worth waking up early for — the views from the top are absolutely breathtaking, especially as the sun comes up over the jungle.

After coming back down, I went back to the hotel, checked out, and got in the car for the next stop: Ella.

Tours to book:

Sigiriya Rock Fortress private guided tour — If you want to make the Sigiriya experience more meaningful, this private walking tour gives you a guide to explain the history and stories behind the fortress as you explore it. I’d especially recommend it if you want more context than you’d get climbing it on your own. Book the Sigiriya guided tour here

Sigiriya + Dambulla guided tour  — If you want to make the logistics easy, this tour combines two of the biggest cultural highlights in the area with a licensed guide. It’s a great option if you want the history and context behind what you’re seeing without having to plan the transportation and timing yourself. Book the tour here

Dambulla Cave Temple Sri Lanka Sigiriya Dambulla Cave Temple Sri Lanka - Sigiriya things to do  

Where to eat in Sigiriya

A few places I saved while I was here:

  • Rastarant — cool, laid-back vibe with soul food and vegan options
  • Little Hut — a good casual dinner spot
  • Smoothiebun — perfect for grabbing a smoothie or quick breakfast before heading out

Skip

Pidurangala Rock. I know this is on almost every Sri Lanka itinerary, but if you’re short on time, I’d prioritize Sigiriya Rock instead. You don’t need to climb both just to say you did both – I’d rather spend that time actually enjoying Sigiriya.

Ravanna Pool Club   Ravanna Pool Club Ella Sri Lanka

Ella

From Sigiriya, I had a long drive to Ella — about 5.5 hours — so I left in the morning and arrived in the afternoon. I stayed at Elevate Ella Resort, which had recently opened and was in a really convenient location for walking to cute cafés, restaurants, and shops.

I had planned to do the Nine Arches Bridge and the famous Ella train ride, but honestly, I ended up skipping both because I was having way too much fun at Ravana Pool Club. And I’m actually glad I did. Sometimes you have to follow the vibes instead of trying to check every single thing off your list.

If you have more time in Ella, though, I’d definitely consider doing the bridge and train ride since they’re both popular for a reason.

Where to stay in Ella:

Cafés & restaurants I’d save: Rainbow Café, Café UFO, 360 Ella, The White Rabbit, Green Door Café, Café Soul, and Café Chill.

Udawalawe

The next morning, my driver and I headed from Ella toward Udawalawe, stopping at Diyaluma Falls along the way. It sounded like the perfect way to break up the drive, but honestly, this was one of the things I could have skipped. There was a short hike through the jungle and, unfortunately, I got a little lost… so I recommend hiring a guide or skipping the detour.

After the waterfall, we continued on to Udawalawa, where I checked into Rustic Cottages. It’s a small property with cute A-frame cabins, and it’s within walking distance of restaurants, which was really convenient after a long day of driving.

Rustic Cottages Hotel  Udawalawe - Rustic Cottages Hotel -m Amy Marietta

Elephant Transit Home

That afternoon, I walked over to the Elephant Transit Home, where I watched orphaned baby elephants being fed and learned about their rehabilitation before they’re eventually returned to the wild. There’s also a museum where you can learn more about the history of elephants in Sri Lanka and the challenges they face today.

Udawalawe National Park safari

The next morning, I woke up early for my Udawalawe National Park safari  which was one of my favorite experiences of the entire trip. Book the same safari here.

If you’re going to do a safari in Sri Lanka, Udawalawe is one I’d absolutely prioritize, especially if seeing elephants in the wild is high on your list. I made a video showcasing my safari experience here.

Udawalawe National Park Safari

Udawalawe National Park Safari Udawalawe National Park Safari - peacock

Udawalawe National Park Safari - amy marietta  Udawalawe National Park Safari - elephants

Udawalawe National Park Safari - elephants

Hiriketiya

After the safari, I checked out and headed about 1.5 hours south to Hiriketiya. This was my first real taste of Sri Lanka’s beach-town energy, and it’s a completely different vibe from Sigiriya and Udawalawe.

Hiriketiya is known for its little crescent-shaped beach, surf lessons, yoga studios, and lots of cute cafés. I stayed at AETHER VILLAS, a beautiful boutique hotel where each villa has its own private infinity pool overlooking the ocean. I found it on Airbnb, and it was the perfect base for exploring the area.

I kept this stop pretty relaxed – beach, cafés, yoga, and wandering around – before continuing down the coast to what ended up being my favorite beach town: Ahangama.

Ahangama Sri Lanka  Hiriketiya AETHER VILLAS

Ahangama

From Hiriketiya, I headed to Ahangama, which ended up being my favorite beach town in Sri Lanka. I stayed for a few days, and it was the perfect base because there was so much within walking distance – restaurants, cafés, shops, the beach, and nightlife.

I stayed at an Airbnb [LINKED HERE] that I absolutely loved. It was right on the beach and close enough to everything that I barely needed a car or tuk-tuk.

ahangama airbnb best 

Where to eat & drink

This was one of my favorite areas for cafés and food, so I’d save these on Google Maps:

  • Moochies — coffee and bowls
  • Cactus — matcha, avocado toast, and breakfast
  • Meori — bowls and coffee
  • La Bella – cafe/restaurant on the beach right by the AirBnB
  • UFO Coffee — coffee stop
  • Coconut Club — drinks and food
  • Thilenis — dinner
  • Ceylon Sliders — food and drinks
  • Mermaid Kitchen — drinks

 best Ahangama Airbnb Sri Lanka

Where to dance / nightlife

One night I went to Lamana, a two-story outdoor club that’s also a skatepark. I went solo and ended up leaving with a new friend who I later went to a jungle rave with. Very high energy and fun if you’re open to it.

After Lamana, we went to Bus Stop for an afterparty on the beach, which is within walking distance and was a fun spot to keep the night going.

A few things I’d skip

I went to Harmony Yoga for an intentional breathwork class. The setting was beautiful, but I didn’t realize it was four hours long, and getting back into town afterward was surprisingly difficult, but luckily, a Norwegian guy gave me a ride on his scooter. The class also felt very Israeli and Zionist-heavy, and I wasn’t comfortable with some of the men or with the Israeli settler leading the class, which felt out of place to me in a spiritual space in Sri Lanka. So I wouldn’t recommend it unless they have a different instructor.

Also skip Habaraduwa specifically to see the turtles. After learning more about the way some wildlife tourism works, it didn’t feel like an experience I wanted to support. Please do not touch or feed the wildlife for a video, keep your distance.

Instead, go to Koggala Beach to see the famous stilt fishermen. They actually invited me to take photos with them, which made it one of my favorite spontaneous experiences.koggala beach    Weligama - Ayurvie Weligama Wellness Hotel

Weligama

After a few days in Ahangama, I headed to Weligama for a little wellness and a change of pace. I stayed at Ayurvie Weligama, an Ayurvedic retreat that doesn’t have much of a social media presence, so it still feels like a bit of a hidden gem. And the view? AHHH. This was exactly the kind of place I wanted toward the end of the trip.

Weligama is known for surfing, so you can easily book a surf lesson here, but I spent my time doing something a little more random — getting henna done at a local woman’s house while sitting on her sofa. Sri Lankan people were so kind and welcoming throughout my trip, and these spontaneous experiences ended up being some of my favorite memories.Ayurvie Weligama wellness hotel sri lanka

Where to eat & hang out

  • After Surf Café — a rooftop café overlooking the ocean and a great spot for breakfast, brunch, coffee, or smoothies.
  • Kai Beach Club — perfect for a beach-club afternoon.

MIRISSA – SECRET BEACH

From Weligama, I took a tuk-tuk with my new friend to Secret Beach in Mirissa, about 15 minutes away. We watched the sunset with fresh coconuts & then ended up at a jungle rave where we danced for hours – my favorite kind of therapy.Secret Beach Mirissa Sri Lanka - travel guide - things to do

NEGOMBO / COLOMBO

The next morning, I got in the car for the 2.5-hour drive back to Negombo for one final beach night. I stayed at Jetwing Blue in Negombo, which was the perfect easy final stop before my flight. After a week of moving around Sri Lanka, I was very happy to have one last night by the beach before heading to the Maldives.

Transportation / Getting Around Sri Lanka

For the longer stretches of this trip, I hired a private driver ahead of time, which made everything so much easier. You can also rent a car or tuktuk and drive yourself but since I was solo I decided to hire drivers for a more seamless experience and it’s always great to support locals:) Book a reliable driver ahead of time like I did here.

You can also take the train, especially for the scenic routes around Ella.

Sri Lanka looks small on a map, but the drives can take much longer than you expect, especially once you get into the mountains. Having a driver also meant you can stop whenever you want, change plans, and not have to worry about navigating between each destination.

Ahangama Sri Lanka beaches

Additional Things to Do If You Have More Time

If you have more than a week in Sri Lanka, I’d slow this itinerary down rather than adding a million more stops. A few things I’d add with extra time: